Mimi Sidna

Wednesday, October 26

It is the middle of the week in Tbilisi, and we are experiencing a cool, and dreary-with-rain forecast for most of the day. We’ve been so fortunate to have sunny days and relatively warm weather for this time of the year, and I’ve tried to take advantage of every day with a little walking in the area surrounding the hotel and beyond.

Monday, I started a walk with the goal of seeing at least one “place of interest” in Tbilisi. From the front of the hotel, there is a hill (little mountain) that has a couple interesting sites, but the Narikala Fortress, a fortress first established in the 4th century and parts of it rebuilt in the 17th century, was the one I chose. I decided to gut it out, and walk to the hill’s steep paths without use of the taxi. Leaving the hotel at 10:15 am, I returned at 3:00 pm, exhausted, exhilarated and successful in my walk. I think I walked about 12 miles roundtrip, and though I was sore from the walk, I saw a lot from the hilltop to the city below.

The beginning…from the hotel. The photo was taken early morning from the window where we have breakfast. Note the left structure on the side of the closest mountain (or hill, as some may say it is). That is my target for the day. Where you see the break in the river (bridge across – can barely be seen) there are two churches on either side, the Metekhi Church on the right bank and the Sioni Cathedral on the left.

View From Hotel Window - at Breakfast

I visited both churches. The Avlabari District of Tbilisi is one of the earliest inhabited areas and where the Metekhi Church is located. According Wikipedia and traditional accounts, King Vakhtang I. Gorgasali erected this church and a fort here that also served also as the king’s residence, hence comes the name Metekhi, dating back to the 12th century and means “the area around the palace.” The Mongol invasion of 1235 flattened this site. The Metekhi Church, resting on the top of the hill beside the river, was damaged and rebuilt numerous times, and was once fortified around the church with a strong citadel garrisoned by some 3,000 soldiers during the mid-1600′s. “Under Russian rule (Wikipedia), the church lost its religious purpose and was used as a barracks. The church functioned again in 1988.”

Metekhi Church

Steps to river side by Metekhi Church

Altar of Metekhi Church at Mtkvari Riverbank

The Sioni Cathedral is located on the opposite corner of the Mtkvari (Kuri) River, and the basic elements of the existing structure date from 1100′s. It was heavily damaged by the Mongols in 1226, restored and damaged several times since from various invasions. According to Wikipedia, the most recent renovation took place in 1980-1983.

Sioni Cathedral

Neoclassic Bell Tower of 1812

Once I established where I was in relation to the Narikala Fortress, I started my climb toward the Botanical Gardens on the opposite side of the Fortress. I began at the Orbeliani Baths, Abanotubani. It is claimed (according to Wikipedia again) that Tbilisi was founded in the fifth century, the legend saying that King Gorgasali was hunting for deer and shot one that fell into a hot sulphur spring. The deer strangely and miraculously healed and this is how the restorative powers of the sulphur springs was discovered. The baths themselves are underground, but beehive-like domes are above ground and now and again give little blasts of steam out of one of the vents of the domes.  ”Abano” means bath, “ubani” means district. When I first saw these mounds, I thought it was an architectural design for the Heydar Aliyev Park, but quickly learned that there were baths beneath the domes.

Sulfur Baths - Tbilisi

Below are several photos of my climb, including views of and from the ruins of the ancient fence of the mother-castle Narikala (formerly called Kala) still standing on the western ridge of Sololaki Range. I’ve been referring it as Narikala Fortress. My descent photos are also included.

Homes, Condos, Shops Below the Narikala Fortress

Steep Grade to Fortress

Walk "Into" Fortress

Inside Castle Walls

St. Nicolas Church - Inside Walls of Narikala Fortress

Mosque on Sololaki Range - By Narikala Fortress

The Mother Georgia - Near Narikala Fortress

Side of Castle Walls

Almost There - Descending - Bridge On Right Is One I Crossed

First Home Immediately Below Narikala Fortress

This was one of the most rewarding walks I’ve had since I have started blogging. It’s not because it was one of the oldest structures, nor the prettiest, but I managed to walk the distance and the climb. It was a satisfaction to know my body could still walk and climb! My brother and I climbed up to Half Dome in Yosemite (8 miles up and 8 miles down) several years ago, and that was excruciating in the pain category. I couldn’t walk down a single step without my chins crying at me. This walk tested my knees and feet, but I did it!

May you have a wonderful day/evening. And may you see beauty in all things big and small.

“The first question I ask myself when something doesn’t seem to be beautiful is, why do I not think it’s beautiful. Very shortly you discover that there is no reason.” John Cage